皮革入门英语.ppt

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1、2023-4-2皮革英语入门12023-4-2皮革英语入门2baby calf胎牛皮胎牛皮 kip leather中牛皮中牛皮buffalo水牛皮水牛皮 lizard蜥蜴皮蜥蜴皮calf leather小牛皮小牛皮 ostrich鸵鸟皮鸵鸟皮Cow 母牛皮母牛皮 Ox公牛皮公牛皮crocodile 鳄鱼皮鳄鱼皮 Pig skin猪皮猪皮fish鱼皮鱼皮 Sheep Skin绵羊皮绵羊皮goat skin山羊皮山羊皮 snake蛇皮蛇皮heifer小母牛小母牛 Steer腌公牛腌公牛Horse马皮马皮 yak牦牛皮牦牛皮kangaroo袋鼠皮袋鼠皮 alligator skin鱷魚皮鱷魚皮kid

2、 leather小山羊皮小山羊皮 2023-4-2皮革英语入门3l未加工前 脱毛前生皮raw hide / raw skin盐腌皮/盐湿皮wet salt hidel脱毛后到鞣制前裸皮pelt灰皮limed pelt酸皮pickled peltl蓝湿皮wet bluel皮坯crustl成品皮finished leather2023-4-2皮革英语入门4aldehyde tanned leather醛鞣革醛鞣革chamois leather /oil tanned leather油鞣革油鞣革chrome Free leather无铬鞣革无铬鞣革chrome leather铬鞣革铬鞣革full c

3、hrome leather纯铬鞣革纯铬鞣革full veg leather纯植鞣革纯植鞣革semi-chrome leather半铬鞣革半铬鞣革semi-veg leather半植鞣革半植鞣革vegetable leather植鞣革植鞣革wet white leather白湿皮白湿皮/ /白湿革白湿革2023-4-2皮革英语入门5aniline leather苯胺革苯胺革metallic leather珠光皮珠光皮 box leather平面皮平面皮Nubuck磨砂磨砂/正绒正绒/牛巴革牛巴革brush-off leather擦色革擦色革oil (oily) full grain油粒面油粒面b

4、urnish leather 打蜡皮打蜡皮 oil (oily) leather油皮油皮corrected grain leather修面革修面革oil (oily) Nubuck油磨砂油磨砂/正绒正绒/牛巴革牛巴革crazy horse leather疯马皮疯马皮patent leather漆皮漆皮/漆革漆革crystal /cracking effect水晶水晶/龟裂效应革龟裂效应革pigmented leather颜料涂饰革颜料涂饰革double face leather毛革两用革毛革两用革pull up leather拉伸变色革拉伸变色革double side leather双面涂饰革

5、双面涂饰革semi aniline半苯胺革半苯胺革embossed leather压花皮压花皮split suede二层绒面革二层绒面革fancy leather美术革美术革, 装饰用革装饰用革suede绒面革绒面革foilled leather贴膜皮贴膜皮transfer finished leather移膜皮移膜皮Full grain leather全粒面革全粒面革two-tone/multi-tone effect双色双色/多色效应革多色效应革glazed imitation leather仿打光革仿打光革under split 三层革三层革glazed leather打光革打光革 20

6、23-4-2皮革英语入门62023-4-2皮革英语入门7lWet End refers to the process from soaking until ready for drying after retaning, dyeing, fatliquoring etc.lNormally including the following steps:Pre soak flesh main soakUnhair/lime lime flesh/split relimeDelime bate pickle tan conditionSam split shaving Wash/Wet Back r

7、echrome neutralize retan dye fatliquor fix 2023-4-2皮革英语入门8lSoakingSoaking is to return the raw stock to as near as possible its original condition and remove dirt, blood, bacteria etcMost of the cases, soaking is carried out in drum or paddle, seldom still in pitsIncreased temperature and mechanical

8、 action increases the rate of rehydration, but more chance to get loose leatherThe raw hides are loaded in the drum or paddle, normally less running/more stop at the beginning 2023-4-2皮革英语入门9lSoakingNormally chemiclas used are: vWetting agents /Detergents, vNeutral Salt (for Sun dried), vBactericide

9、, vAlkali salts. Time can take from 4 hours to 2 days depending on the original form of preservation2023-4-2皮革英语入门10lUnhairing / LimingUnhairing / Liming is to remove hair and the epidermis and break down and open up the fiber structure of the raw stock.Normally for hair burning process, unhairing i

10、s carried out first then directly followed by liming in the same bath; for hair saving process, hair roots are loosen by certain chemicals then hair was pulled out by mechanical action, then liming is carried out in new bath.For soft leathers, relime is usually carried out after lime splitting or li

11、me fleshing, Unhairing/Liming/Reliming all run with interval stops 2023-4-2皮革英语入门11lUnhairing / LimingChemicals used including:vSodium Sulfide and/or Sodium Hydrosulfide vAmines or Anti wrinkle agent Lime AuxiliaryvHydrated Lime powder /pastevDegreasing agentLiming should be gentle and even, uneven

12、swelling occurs leading to wrinkles or drawn grain, lime auxiliary helps for more even swelling and less risk of lime blast.Unhairing / Liming can be carried out with no float, short float, then extended float or long float depending on the raw stock, equipment, etc.2023-4-2皮革英语入门12lDelimingDeliming

13、 is to remove the mechanically deposited and chemically bound lime and of capillary lime by conversion into readily soluble salts.Carried out in drum with continuous runningDeliming is carried out by using acid and/or acid salts:vAmmonium Chloride, ammonium Sulphate, Sodium bisulphite, vLactic Acid,

14、 boric acid2023-4-2皮革英语入门13lBatingBating is to break down certain amount of fiber structure and further open up the collagen network.Temperature(30-36oC), pH(8.0-8.5), running time (10-60) and enzyme type will decide the effect of bating, which is checked mainly by experience. Most common enzyme is

15、pancreatic enzymes, with continuous running or running for some time then rest some time.The enzyme value (LVU) is the number of enzyme units in 1 g bating agent. One enzyme unit has the fermentative capacity to digest 1.725 mg casein.2023-4-2皮革英语入门14lPicklingPickling is to acidify the pelts to a ce

16、rtain pH before chrome tannage and thus to reduce the astringency of the chrome tanning agents. Pickling must put in enough salt first (min. 6Beo) to prevent unexpected swelling which result in poor tensile strength.Depending on the final pH and the type of acids used, amount of the acid vary from 1% to 3% Usually weak acid prior to strong acid if there has. 2023-4-2皮革英语入门15lPicklingChemicals used:vCommon SaltvWeak acid (Formic Acid, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid ) and/or Strong Acid (Hydrochloric ac